A Long Layover in Hong Kong

On a recent vacation to Bali, I incorporated a "long layover" in Hong Kong.  I figure that if I have to stop somewhere, I might as well stay long enough to check it out.  Of course, Hong Kong deserves much more than a weekend.  But if you've only got a weekend, you're in for a treat.  Here's how to layover (yes, it's a verb now) in Hong Kong.

Friday Night

Check in at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental.  Hop on the ferry over to Kowloon for dinner at Hutong, a Northern Chinese restaurant with dim lighting and floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing breathtaking views of Victoria Harbor.  If jet lag is keeping you up, get drinks (and more views) at the Peninsula's famous bar, Felix, and then do like the locals and grab a karaoke room at CEO Noway (also on the Kowloon side).  If you're looking for a more low-key night after your trip around the world, there is a Michelin-star French restaurant in your hotel that is delicious and just an elevator-ride away from your bed.  

Saturday

Get an early start by taking the tram up to The Peak, Hong Kong's most iconic view-spot.  Stroll through the paths winding down the mountain from the peak (or take the tram down) and find yourself at the Hong Kong Gardens.  After exploring the gardens, stop into the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and grab tea and a light snack at the Lockcha Tea House.  

Hop into a taxi and head to Sheung Wan, Hong Kong's art district.  You'll find gorgeous ceramics, traditional art and antiques and contemporary galleries.  While you're in the neighborhood, step into the Man Mo Temple before grabbing a well-deserved dim sum lunch at Luk Yu Teahouse.  

After lunch, grab a cab over to Kowloon to check out the Nan Lian Garden and the Chi Lin Nunnery (about a three minute walk from one another).  Head back to the mainland and get a fancy dim sum dinner at Man Wah, a Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant and arguably Hong Kong's most beautiful dining space.  Grab cocktails after dinner at Lily & Bloom, and head out to the bars of Lan Kwai Fong (known as "LKF") for more revelry.  

Sunday

Get another early start today because you'll be visiting the Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha, otherwise known as the Big Buddha, on Lantau Island.  Take the MTR Tung Chung Station Exit B, then ride the Ngong Ping Cable Car over the hills for about a 25-minute ride, watching closely for an early glimpse of the Buddha.  After making your way through the cartoonish town (think: a Chinese Disneyland), ascend the stairs up to the Buddha.  Note: The Big Buddha is near the airport, so if you're taking off in the afternoon, you should bring your luggage with you in the morning, leave it in a locker in the airport, and then head to the Buddha by taxi.  

I didn't love the food offerings at the Monastery, and would suggest heading back to the mainland for lunch at the local favorite, Butao Ramen, followed by reflexology around the corner at Happy Foot.  Get sunset cocktails at the highest bar in the world, Ozone Bar, and then head to dinner at dinner at Lung King Heen, a three-Michelin-star Cantonese establishment in the Four Seasons Hotel.  If you are heading back to New York in the morning, head to Dusk Till Dawn and get a head start on kicking your jet lag by dancing all night to the live band.     

Victoria Peak ("The Peak")

View from The Peak

Ferry to Kowloon at night

Hong Kong

Hong Kong Garden

Luk Yu Teahouse

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Ngong Ping Cable Car

Ngong Ping Cable Car

Big Buddha

Big Buddha

Dim Sum at Lung King Heen

Lily & Bloom

Pololi

This is a delicious sashimi bar where you can get bowls of tuna with rice and other toppings on the go. 

Hong Kong

Night views

Stay: Peninsula; Landmark Mandarin Oriental; Mandarin Oriental; Four Seasons; Ritz Carlton. 

Eat: Butao Ramen; Hutong; Lung King Heen; Man Wah; Luk Yu Teahouse; Lockcha Tea House; Amber.

Do: Chi Lin Nunnery; Nan Lian Garden; Big Buddha; Reflexology (everywhere). 

Nightlife: CEO Noway; Dusk Till Dawn; Felix; Ozone Bar; Lily & Bloom; LKF district. 

When in Austin, Eat Breakfast Tacos

"There's no real Tex-Mex in New York," declared Cindi, the manager of Tamale House East, when she found out where I was from.  "They say they're Tex-Mex, but they don't have breakfast tacos on the menus!"  Austinites are proud of their cuisine, and rightly so, as the city puts out some of the best Tex-Mex and BBQ in the country.  

My recent weekend in Austin was spent consuming migas breakfast tacos, fried chicken, and heaps of smoked and sauced BBQ.  My stomach could barely keep up with all the deliciousness, and I frequently yearned for expedited digestion so I could get started on the next meal.  To get a sense of all that the Austin food scene has to offer, I'd recommend checking out casual diners for breakfast, food trucks for lunch, and nicer restaurants for dinner.  Here's where to eat at every meal and what to order: 

Breakfast:  

Traditional, home-cooked goodness:

Tamale House East: Mom's Migas with Cheese (a mouthwatering egg scramble with cheese and crispy tortilla strips), a tamale (any kind will do, this is the namesake after all), at least one breakfast taco (when in Austin...), and a Mexican iced coffee.

Lucy's Fried Chicken: Fried chicken and waffles with cinnamon-honey butter, bacon marmalade and maple syrup. 

If you're not a breakfast person...

Juice Austin: Try the Cha-Cha-Chai or one of this truck's signature smoothie bowls (a smoothie topped with granola and fresh fruit).  

Jo's Coffee: Right across the street from Juice Austin, they serve Stumptown coffee and a good assortment of breakfast tacos for your hungry friends.  

Lunch: 

Torchy's Tacos: My favorite taco is the Baja Shrimp, but you should also try the Trailer Park, the Fried Avocado, the Brushfire, the Mr. Orange and the Crossroads.  Basically, you'll probably need to come here a few times.  Note: The truck also has an excellent selection of breakfast tacos, including a migas taco, so this is also a good breakfast option, especially if you want something on-the-go.  

Franklin Barbecue: If you manage to brave the line and actually order from this Austin institution, it's all smokey deliciousness from there on out.   

Afternoon Snack:

Gourdough's: Fancy doughnuts.  'Nuff said.  

Dinner: 

La Condesa: Order the El Califa Taquito, with New York strip covered in crispy manchego cheese, cilantro and oak-grilled jalapeno-tomato salsa.

Lambert's: Fancy smoke-BBQ across the street from La Condesa.  Offers a variety of oak-smoked and oak-grilled options, and you should probably try one of each.  Start with the Spicy Deviled Eggs and the Deep Fried Boudin Fritters. 

Foreign and Domestic: One of the most talked-about restaurants on the "foodie" scene of Austin.  I went for "Fried Chicken Monday" and was in heaven. You'll get a basket of fried chicken, biscuits and honey and a bunch of mouth-watering sides including roasted tomatoes, brussels sprouts, potatoes, and a green salad.  For dessert, we had an ice cream sandwich made from peanut butter cookies and vanilla ice cream swirled with raspberry jam.  

Barley Swine: No ordering necessary - there's a tasting menu for $85/person and you'll try everything.  

Torchy's Tacos

Austin Juice Truck

Cupcake Truck

Feathers

An amazing vintage store in SoCo.

South Congress

Take Heart

Lady Bird

White Horse

Tamale House East

Capital Building

Gourdough's

Stay: JW Marriott; Four Seasons; Hotel Saint Cecilia. 

Eat: Tamale House East; Lucy's Fried Chicken; Torchy's Tacos; Franklin Barbecue; La Condesa; Foreign and Domestic; Barley Swine; Second Bar and Kitchen; Jo's Coffee; Juice Austin; Ironworks Barbecue; El Chilito; Uchi Sushi; Salty Sow; East Side King; Micklethwait. 

Shop: Take Heart; Feathers; Charm School Vintage. 

Music: The Continental Club; The White Horse; The Elephant Room. 

Fingerlakes Vineyard Hopping: The Secret's Out

Wine Enthusiast recently named the Finger Lakes region as one of the ten best wine travel destinations, and a "soon-to-be-revealed secret."  Now that the secret's out, I'll let you in on it.  I've been going wine-tasting at Keuka Lake for a decade now, and there is no better way to spend a summer or early fall weekend.  If you've been paying attention, you know that people have been talking about Finger Lakes wine for a few years now, and that it's been popping up on some of the hottest menus in the city (especially the whites and dry rieslings).  But wine-tasting in the Finger Lakes is such a special experience not just because of the quality of the wine, but because of the authentic beauty of the region and the unpretentiousness of the experience.   

Driving down the country roads between vineyards around Keuka Lake, you'll pass rustic red barns, impeccably maintained farms and adorable farm-stands selling flowers and vegetables.  The area is heavily dominated by Mennonites, who shun the use of electricity and take pride in keeping up their farms beautifully.  The result is that everything is Pinterest-worthy, but no one even knows what Pinterest is.  The cute little stand selling firewood in bundles is not on Instagram, and wasn't intended to look "country-chic"--it just is country chic and probably has been for decades.  

Because this region is still under the radar, it's about as unpretentious as you can get.  No reservations are necessary, everything is inexpensive (about $10 a tasting), and everywhere you go you'll be treated like a friend.  Stay at a BnB or rent a house on the lake, and drive from vineyard to vineyard, stopping at antique stores and barns along the way.  And you should probably go soon, since the secret's out and all.  

Keuka Lake Vineyards: Hunt Country Vineyards; Heron Hill Winery; Bully Hill Vineyards; Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars and Chateau Frank; Barrington Cellars; Chateau Renaissance Wine Cellars; Crooked Lake Winery. 

Antiquing: Over the Bridge Antiques; Wild Goose Chase Antiques; Crooked Lake Antiques.

Restaurants: The Waterfront; Lakeside Restaurant & Tavern; Esperanza Mansion; The Switzerland Inn. 

Stay: Steamboat Castle BnB; The Willows; Tudor Hall BnB. 

Ubud: Land of the Gods (and art, yoga, and massages)

Are you a wellness-addict who goes to Art Basel?  If so, then Ubud might just be your dream destination.  This is a place for the yogis, the juicers and the spa-obsessed.  But with a thriving art scene, Ubud also attracts serious collectors and culture-fiends.  No matter who you are, though, you'll likely find something magical about Ubud.  From the striking beauty of the rice fields, to the ornate temples on nearly every corner, it's no wonder they call Ubud "The Land of the Gods."  

Here is my Ubud weekend itinerary, with your home base as the Uma, by COMO.  There is no shortage of incredible hotels in Ubud, but having spent three days at Uma, I can vouch for its service, food and aesthetic.  Many of the rooms come with private pools, and ours had one that that looked out into the rainforest.  The Neka Art Museum is literally next door, Putri Bali Spa across the street, and Mozaic restaurant a few minutes down the road.  While the "main" Ubud town is about a five-minute drive south (and about a 20 minute walk) I preferred the more relaxed, low-key vibe of northern Ubud.  

Saturday

Morning: Get an early start with an 8am stroll through the rice paddies surrounding the hotel (led by an Uma guide each morning) and take endless photos of the neon green grass, set against a backdrop of rainforest. (Side note: rice paddies do very well on Instagram).  Once you've worked up an appetite, grab breakfast at the hotel's health-conscious restaurant, with offerings including: "black rice pudding with mango, banana and young coconut" and "sweet corn cakes with smoked salmon, avocado and lemon scented cottage cheese with rocket".

After breakfast, rent a bike from Uma and explore the colorful villages.  With all of the temples, exotic flora, and rice paddies, it's hard to put your phone down long enough to actually get anywhere.  My favorite moment of this ride, though, was when two schoolboys around eight-years-old rode up next to me and with sly smiles began yelling "F*** you" to me.  It brought them endless joy to utter this phrase, and I found myself returning the compliment.  And so it happened that these Balinese children and I rode together for about 15 minutes, yelling "F*** you" to each other as we flew through the paddies.  Memories.   

Afternoon: After you've freshened up, head out from the hotel on foot and grab a BBQ lunch across the street at Naughty Nuri's, known for their ribs and (strong) martinis.  Stroll through the town surrounding the hotel and pop into the art galleries dotting the main street.  The Neka Art Museum has an impressive collection of Balinese art and is set in a peaceful garden.  Relax afterwards with reflexology or a massage at Putri Bali Spa.  

Evening:  Head out for dinner at Mozaic, a romantic restaurant just a few minutes walk from your hotel.  Mozaic is on the pricey side, but it's a staple of Ubud dining for a reason. After dinner, stop by the aptly named Room 4 Dessert, brainchild of Will Goldfarb (behind the restaurant at Ku de Ta).  

Sunday

Morning:  Start off your day with yoga at the hotel, followed by breakfast at Uma.  Hire a hotel guide for the morning and check out some of the incredible temples surrounding Bali, perhaps even participating in a purification ritual at the Terta Empul Temple.  Then head to Bali Pulina where you will sample various Balinese coffees above the most famous rice paddy in Ubud.  They are known for their Kopi Luwak, a coffee brewed from beans that have been eaten and excreted from a ferret-like animal known as the Asian Palm Civet.  For extra points, feed the animals coffee beans by hand before heading to the terrace to drink the coffee they just pooped.  

Afternoon: Have your guide drop you off for lunch at Sari Organik, a healthy restaurant smack in the middle of the rice paddies (Note: your driver will drop you off at the edge of the rice paddy, and you'll need to take a small pathway about ten minutes through the rice paddy to get to the restaurant, which is an experience in itself).  After lunch, explore the surrounding town, stopping in the shops and checking out some more galleries.  If you're feeling adventurous, stop into the Ubud Monkey Forest, but beware, the monkeys here are notoriously aggressive! (I skipped this activity because I happen to be terrified of monkeys).  If you missed yoga this morning, an alternative afternoon plan is to take a yoga class at Yoga Barn and eat lunch there after.  

Evening:  Have a hotel car drive you ten minutes south for dinner at the place everyone's talking about: Locavore.  Make sure to reserve a table in advance...and to save room, as this is a seven course experience.  After dinner, head back to your room and sip wine by candlelight, listening to the noises of the jungle while you contemplate arranging a life for yourself in Ubud.  For now, take solace in the fact that you are leaving feeling invigorated, healthy, and likely with an amazing new piece of art.   

Morning walk from Uma

Morning walk from Uma

Rice paddies

Rice Paddies

Bali Pulina

Bali Pulina

Coffee beans, previously excreted from the Asian Civet

Bali Pulina

Bali Pulina

Bali Pulina

Terta Empul Temple

Terta Empul Temple

Terta Empul Temple

Terta Empul Temple

Terta Empul Temple

Terta Empul Temple

Bike ride through the villages

Bike ride through the villages

Bike ride through the villages

Uma, by COMO

Uma, by COMO

Our plunge pool faced the rainforest

Uma, by Como

How about some jungle rose?

Uma, by COMO

Uma, by COMO

Uma, by COMO

Nika Art Museum

Uma, by COMO

Uma, by COMO

Stay: Uma, by COMO; The Viceroy; Ubud Hanging Gardens; The Chedi Club.

Eat: Sari Organik; Room 4 Dessert; Mozaic; Bridges; Naughty Nuri's; Yoga Barn; Locavore. 

Art: Neka Art Museum; Komaneka Gallery; Arma; Sika Gallery; Bamboo Gallery; Museum Puri Lakisan; Antonio Blanco Museum; Museum Rudana. 

Spas: Putri Bali Spa; Ubud Traditional Spa.

Activities: Ubud Monkey Forest; Bali Pulina; Terta Empul Temple; Ubud Palace; Ubud Market; Yoga Barn. 

A Day on Block Island, Montauk's Best-Kept Secret

I could never have imagined that just one hour off the coast of Montauk by boat I would find a magical island of alpacas, dance parties, stunning beaches and mudslides by the bucket.  But that is exactly what I discovered last weekend when I boarded a ferry from Montauk Harbor and set sail for a land I had only heard about in stories.  The land is called Block Island, and I suggest you bring your bike. 

10AM: Board the high-speed ferry from Montauk Harbor.  To be safe, get your tickets ahead of time.  Don't be late....our ferry disembarked at 10:03 sharp.  

11AM: You've arrived at Block Island!  Find yourself surrounded by hundreds of yachts as you pull into the dock, which is painted white and festively adorned with potted plants and American flags.  If you didn't bring a bike on the ferry, head for the bike rental at the base of the dock (around $30/day).  

12PM: Ride to Abrams' Animal Farm (adjoined to North Light Fibers) where you will frolic with and pet alpacas roaming in a green pasture on a hill.  Full disclosure: while the alpaca pasture was magical, the rest of the animal farm was kinda sad.  There was a window screen and plastic cups lying around the enclosure for the llama and the yak had a bleeding, broken horn.  The camel seemed to be pacing.  The bottom line is that if you are an animal lover you may have varying reactions to this farm, but I'm pretty sure you'd love the alpaca pasture, so maybe just go there.  

1PM: Ride to Ballard's Inn for lunch.  Sit on the tables outside on the sand and order oysters and a bucket of blackberry mudslide.  A mudslide (which is basically an alcoholic ice cream shake) is the kind of ridiculous indulgence justified only by the fact it is the island speciality.  So just go with that....and order them everywhere.  Around 2pm, you'll notice that there's a band playing and everyone is dancing.  Don't worry, you're not crashing a wedding.  It's the mudslides. 

2PM: Tear yourself off the dance floor despite groans of disappointment from your fans, and get back on your bike because you're heading to the lighthouse.  This is where you'll work off that mudslide because-- I'm sorry to tell you--the ride is mostly uphill.  Take pictures of the lighthouse and observe the view.  You can skip this step if you want, but I thought I'd mention it in case you're a sucker for lighthouses on small islands.

2:30PM:  Just a few yards down the hill by bike you'll find what will likely be the most impressive sight of the day: Mohegan Bluffs.  Lock up your bike and descend the wooden staircase to the beach, amidst lush greenery and dramatic, prehistoric cliffs.  I spent about an hour on this unexpectedly marvelous beach.   

3:30PM: Ascend the crazy stairs and mount your bike.  Lucky for you, the ride is all downhill from here.  You're heading to The Oar, a classic Block Island bar with picturesque harbor views from three directions.  As you sit amongst a thousand painted oars, wash down your surprisingly tasty sushi with another mudslide.  Remember, the mudslides are a cultural activity, necessary to achieve the full Block Island experience.  I think that means the calories don't count.   

4:30PM:  Head to the harbor to return your bike and catch the 5pm ferry.  As you walk back down the dock to the ferry, note the revelers dancing and drinking on the boats all around you and wonder who they are and why you don't have any friends with large boats.  

5 PM: Head home on the ferry.  You'll be home by 6pm, so you'll have time to shower up and head out for a night in Montauk. 

Montauk

On the ferry to Block Island. 

Block Island Harbor

Block Island Harbor

Ferry dock

Bike rentals

Block Island - View of the Harbor

Abrams' Animal Farm

Abrams' Animal Farm

Ballard's Inn

Bike ride to South East Lighthouse

South East Lighthouse

South East Lighthouse

South East Lighthouse

Mohegan Bluffs

Where you'll leave your bike

Trail to Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs

Mohegan Bluffs

Ride to The Oar

Ride to The Oar

The Oar

The Oar

The Oar

The Oar

The Oar

Boat parties in the habor

Leaving Block Island

Leaving Block Island