Crazy for Cartagena
Cartagena was unexpectedly one of the easiest and most enjoyable long weekends that I took last year. It's a nonstop flight from New York City, and the Old City (where you should stay) is a quick taxi ride away. Within six or so hours of travel, you arrive into a completely new world of brightly colored buildings, incredible food, and top-notch beaches.
Stay: I stayed at the Sofitel, a lush hotel with a toucan-in-residence, which is actually a former convent that has been named a World Heritage site. The best thing about the Sofitel is its location. Near the main road, it's easily to get to and from the airport and the marinas. But since it's inside the historic quarter, it's also within walking distance of all the good restaurants and bars.
Eat: For a quick lunch, Cartagena's "Arepa Lady" sets up her cart every day on Calle Puerto Velo in the Old City. For dinner, we highly enjoyed La Vitrola, where we were happily serenaded by a live Cuban band, and Donjuan, memorable for its chic blue and white striped decour. I had the best ceviche of my life at La Cevicheria, which is conveniently located across the street from the Sofitel. For dessert, we discovered the popsicles at La Paletteria our first day and ended up going back every day of our trip. The seafood you'll get on Playa Blanca or Cholon is incredibly fresh. If you're eating in Cholon, you can even take your lobster in the water! (There are actually tables and chairs set up in the water.)
Do: Spend a day walking through the historic quarter, getting lost in the colorful streets and eating handmade arepas and fresh fruit from the street vendors. Afterwards, grab sunset cocktails at Cafe del Mar. Depending on how much time you have, check out the up and coming Getsemani neighborhood, which is just a short taxi ride out of the walled city. At night, stop by the famed Cafe Havana for some drinks and live music.
Without a doubt, you must charter a private boat and head to the islands. The best beaches are Playa Blanca (on Isla Baru), and Cholon. I've heard that Cholon can turn into a party beach, but my experience there was the opposite. We arrived by chartered boat around 11AM, and had a nearly empty island all to ourselves. The people on the island were extremely hospitable, and quickly offered us drinks in freshly opened coconut shells and beach chairs. One woman even offered to give me a massage on the beach, and though I would usually be skeptical of such an offer, I accepted and was not disappointed. She gave me an hour-long massage with coconut oil for only $15, and afterwards even french-braided my hair! And of course, no trip to Cholon is complete without experiencing lunch in the water!
Stay: I would recommend staying within the walled city, at: Sofitel, Casa de Indias, Casa Pombo, Casablanca B & B, La Passion Hotel. If you're looking to stay in Getsemani, stay at Tres Pasos de la Havana, in the heart of this trendy neighborhood, just steps away from Cafe Havana. Also, don't forget to check out private residences on Airbnb. We found an incredible home in Cartagena with a huge private rooftop with ocean views for about the same price as a hotel.
Eat: La Vitrola, Carmen Cartagena, Don Juan, Cevicheria, and Frank & Frank. Cartagena has no shortage of mouthwatering dessert options. Try Portal de los Dulces, Mila Pastelerlia, Ely Gourmet (Getsemani), Gelateria Paradiso or La Palatteria.
