Les Bergeries de Piscia

Driving to this hotel from the airport in Figaro, I thought someone was playing a joke on me.  Following the route suggested by Googlemaps, we ascended a mountain for what seemed like ages, navigating twists and turns and fearfully observing the landscape become increasingly rugged and wild.  When the paved road came to an end and there was no hotel in sight, we considered turning back.  Placing all of our trust in technology, we continued forward, bumping along the dirt road and scraping past uncleared branches.    

When we finally saw signs for Les Bergeries de Piscia, it was like seeing a mirage after hours in the desert.  We parked the car, and as we followed the signs to the hotel's entrance, we were delighted by exotic wildflowers, cactus and butterflies fluttering around our heads.  The understated but chic hotel grounds compliment, while not overshadowing, the rugged landscape,  while a turquoise infinity pool, perched dramatically on the edge of the mountain, provides a welcome reminder that, at last, you've reached civilization.  

The restaurant, like the hotel's landscaping and decor, is elegant while remaining authentic and unimposing.  There is no menu, table decorations or wait staff.  When you're hungry, simply take a seat in the rustic dining room and the chef will fill you in on what is on the menu for the day (though it will likely include local boar, goat cheese and fig preserves).  

The unparalleled tranquility of this rustic hotel provides an unexpected compliment to your your Corsican beach weekend and is surely worth a visit, even if only for lunch a quick dip in the pool!

Eze Elegance at Chateau de la Chevre d'Or

The Chateau de La Chevre D'Or in Eze may just be the most magical hotel I've ever experienced.  Pulling into the hotel's parking lot, we found ourselves surrounded by luxury vehicles of the sort I typically observe only in rap videos or the Instagram of an Arab oil heir I follow. 

When we arrived to our room, a champagne cocktail was waiting and we took it on the balcony, which was set dramatically on a cliff overlooking the peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and the glamorous sprinkle of white yachts in its bay.  The expansive hotel grounds feature an intriguing array of curiosities ranging from a giant chess board to a safari's worth of life-sized African animals.  Every where you look, your eyes are met by sculpture, set against a backdrop of cliffs, ocean or perfectly-manicured gardens.  The hotel staff are world-class, meeting your every need with a combination of propriety and affability, and ensuring you're never too long without a glass of champagne in your hand.  

Eat: Start your day by ordering fruit and coffee to your terrace, and take in the stunning views of the sea and the peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  For lunch, head to the Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat.   After lunch, walk along the water into the little seaside village of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  For dinner, you must try the hotel's two-Michellin-Star restaurant, La Chevre d'Or, whose six-course meal gives Per Se a run for its money.  Grabbing a glass of champagne on the moonlit terrace before dinner achieves Titanic-levels of romance, except at the end of the night you'll be sharing dessert, not a raft.  

The next night, hire a taxi and drive into Monaco for dinner at Sass Cafe.  The food is not spectacular, but the ambiance is.  You'll be serenaded by a piano singer or two while you eat.  Around midnight, they turn off the lights, switch the tables, and you find yourself in a nightclub, dancing on the table you just ate on.  If you still have energy, the after party is at Jimmy'z.  

Do:  The hotel is so magnificent that you'll probably spend most of your time wandering the ethereal grounds and lounging by the assortment of pools and relaxation areas, each with unparalleled ocean views.  However, if you're craving some beach time, have the hotel concierge book you a front-and-center beach bed at Paloma beach and enjoy crystal clear waters and a chic French vibe.  There's a restaurant on the beach, but you can also order calamari and rose right to your beach bed.  Spend your nights in Monte Carlo, grabbing drinks at Hotel de Paris and playing blackjack at the Casino Royale.  When the fun is over, take a car home and wake up again to your breathtaking view of the sea.  Just make sure to hire a car in advance, as it can be difficult to find a taxi late at night!

If you have enough time, drive to Cannes next, stopping in Antibes for lunch at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, the site of some of Slim Aaron's most iconic images, and also where Nell Diamond recently tied the knot.  

How to get there:  We flew into Nice, rented a car, and drove to the hotel.  It's probably best to rent a car because you have to drive to most places you'll want to go, and taxis are quite expensive.  

Chevre D'Or

Chevre D'Or

Chevre D'Or

Breakfast on our balcony

Chevre D'Or

View from the hotel

Chevre D'Or

View at dusk

Paloma Beach

Paloma Beach

Southern Corsica: Porto-Vecchio & Bonifaccio

Last year, after attending a wedding in the mountains of Megeve, I met up in southern Corsica with some friends who were living in Europe at the time.  I had been craving a visit to Corisca for a while, captivated by the dramatic cliffs, crystal clear waters, and of course, the stylish French towns.  After some debate, we decided to spend two days in Porto-Vecchio, which we had heard was more of a "party town" and to take a day trip into Bonifaccio, which we had heard was quieter, but had one of the most beautiful ports in the world.  

We began our trip in Porto-Vecchio, walking through the impossibly chic town streets, shopping for hats and straw tote bags and catching glimpses of the Tour de France, which Corsica was hosting at the time.  There was a lovely beach steps from our hotel, Plage de Santa-Giulia, but the real gem was Palombaggia, known as one of the best beaches in Europe.  For lunch, you must eat at Tamaricciu, a chic restaurant with a St. Tropez vibe right on Palombaggia that serves grilled fish, meat, and pasta.  You can also rent beach beds from the restaurant, and their waiters will keep the rose flowing all afternoon.  

While in Porto-Vecchio, we ate at Chez Anna, and Le Bistro, both of which came highly recommended and did not disappoint.  After dinner, we tried our hand at Corsican nightlife at Le Patio and Via Notte.  Both were lively and fun, but I would definitely suggest arranging a car home in advance.  After one particularly fun night out at Le Patio, we were unable to locate a taxi and might well have been stranded all night on the dock had the receptionist from our hotel not spotted us and kindly offered us a ride home.  

On the final day of our trip, we drove into Bonifaccio, and spent the morning strolling along the peaceful port, stepping into shops and eating at one of the many restaurants which line the waterfront.  After lunch, we hopped on a boat to explore the cliffs, caves and nearby Lavezzi islands, which are beyond picturesque.  

If you're craving an understated, but elegant European beach vacation, southern Corsica is a hidden gem that I would highly recommend.  In August, keep an eye out for celebrity yachts, as they tend to moor in Porto-Vecchio or Bonifaccio before setting sail to Sardinia.  

Lavezzi Islands

Lavezzi Islands

Boat trip out of Bonifaccio

Bonifaccio port

BonifaccioCorsica.net

Bonifaccio port

BonifaccioCorsica.net

Porto-Vecchio

Portovecchiocorsica.com

Porto-Vecchio port

Portovecchiocorsica.com

Porto-Vecchio

Porto-Vecchio

Portovecchiocorsica.com

Palombaggia Beach

Palombaggia South

Portovecchiocorsica.net

Palombaggia North

Portovecchiocorsica.com

Stay: Porto-Vecchio: Casa del Mar, Grand Hotel de Calla Rossa, Le Belvedere; Bonifaccio: U Capu Biancu, Domaine de Murtoli.  

Eat: Porto-Vecchio: Chez Anna, Le Bistro, Le Belvedere, Sous La Tonnelle; Le Roi Théodore; Bonifaccio: 1 Stella d'Oro (also known as Chez Jules); Le Voilier.  

Marseilles Memories

This gritty port town, first settled by the ancient Greeks, has an old-maritime feeling and a unique mix of cultural influences unlike any place I've ever traveled.  The highlight of my visit was a trip to the Cours Julien art district, where I explored the maze of eccentric, painted streets, stepping into galleries and shops along the way.  And it is absolutely lovely to stroll along the almost-always sunny port, picking up soaps and Pastis for friends and family back at home.  Named a European Capital of Culture of 2013, Marseilles is easy to access from Paris via the TGV, but could not be more different.  

Stay: Mamashelter, Casa Honore, Hotel La Residence du Vieux Port, Au Vieux Panier. 

Eat: The iconic dish of Marseilles is Bouliobasse, so your biggest decision while here is where to eat it.  I ordered it from FonFon and was delighted by both the food and the stunning views of the port and its many colorful boats, on which the restaurant sits.  Other institutions known for their Bouillabaisse are Chez Michal, Chez Aldo and the Michelin-starred L'Epuisette.  

Do: Stroll along the Marseilles port, admiring the whimsical larger-than-life sculptures along the boardwalk and shopping for soaps and Pastis.  Stop by the famous Four des Navettes for some orange blossom navettes (cookies).  Then head to the quirky Cours Julien art district, admiring the murals and stopping into restaurants, shops and art galleries.  Get an olive-oil soap exfoliation at Zein Oriental Spa, an upscale hamman-spa.   If you're craving beach time, check out Plage des Catalans or Plage du Prado.  

Marseilles port

Soaps on Marseilles port

Marseilles port

Fon Fon Restaurant

Marseilles

Pastis on the port

Pastis on the port

Four des Navettes

Cours Julien art district

Cours Julien

Cours Julien

Stay: Mamashelter, Casa Honore, Hotel La Residence du Vieux Port, Au Vieux Panier. 

Eat: FonFon, Le Ventre de l’Architecte, Chez Michal, Chez Aldo and L'Epuisette. 

Aix-En-Provence and Village-Hopping

Last year, one of my best girlfriends from college got married in Megeve, France.  After the wedding, a friend and I traveled to Provence, and it remains in my memory today as one of the most charming places I have ever visited. We spent the first day in Aix, getting lost in the the winding streets, purchasing lavender-scented items and admiring the flower markets.  I also had a taste of my first "French Cheeseburger" from a farmers market, which is cured meat covered in melted cheese on a french baguette.  Later, we sat down for an al-fresco late lunch of oysters and white wine at La Rotunde.  It was lovely.  

While in Aix, we learned that it was lavender season and that we absolutely had to spend a day driving through the lavender fields and visiting some of the many historic villages in the surrounding countryside.  The next day, we rented a car and drove into the countryside, with a list of recommended villages in hand.  Some of my favorite villages were Roussillon, Gordes, Saint Remy de Provence, and Bonnieux.  Outside the village of Gordes is the Senaque Abbey, where you'll take the obligatory photo of the lavender fields in front of the Abbey.  However, I would advise that you be open to anything that catches your eye.  We randomly pulled into a small, family-run lavender farm for no reason other than their adorable donkeys.  We ended up chatting with the owners and purchasing some lovely homemade lavender oils there.  

We spent our final day in Cassis, a picturesque waterfront village a few hours drive from Aix.   We took a boat out to see the Calanques, incredible rock formations along the cliff, and the driver of the tour boat put his microphone in front of me and made me sing for the entire tour group.  We then had one of the most delicious meals of my life at Villa Madie, a Michelin starred restaurant with stunning views of the water and rusty cliffs.  

A trip to Provence during lavender season (June to August) is a bucket list-worthy adventure full of gorgeous scenery and delicious food, an unexpected and delightful alternative to the typical southern France beach weekend. 

Aix Flower Market

Aix Flower Market

Aix Flower Market

Senaque Abbey

Roussillon

Roussillon

Cassis

Cassis

Cassis

Cassis

Cassis

Calanques in Cassis

Cassis

Stay: 28 A Aix, Hotel Le Pigonnet, La Pauline, La Petite Maison de Carla, Sous Le Tilleful.

Eat:  Aix: Chez Thome, Les Deux Garconnes, L'Hostellerie de l'Abbeye de la Celle, Le Close de la Violetta, and Mitch.  Cassis: Villa Madie.