A Long Layover in Hong Kong

On a recent vacation to Bali, I incorporated a "long layover" in Hong Kong.  I figure that if I have to stop somewhere, I might as well stay long enough to check it out.  Of course, Hong Kong deserves much more than a weekend.  But if you've only got a weekend, you're in for a treat.  Here's how to layover (yes, it's a verb now) in Hong Kong.

Friday Night

Check in at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental.  Hop on the ferry over to Kowloon for dinner at Hutong, a Northern Chinese restaurant with dim lighting and floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing breathtaking views of Victoria Harbor.  If jet lag is keeping you up, get drinks (and more views) at the Peninsula's famous bar, Felix, and then do like the locals and grab a karaoke room at CEO Noway (also on the Kowloon side).  If you're looking for a more low-key night after your trip around the world, there is a Michelin-star French restaurant in your hotel that is delicious and just an elevator-ride away from your bed.  

Saturday

Get an early start by taking the tram up to The Peak, Hong Kong's most iconic view-spot.  Stroll through the paths winding down the mountain from the peak (or take the tram down) and find yourself at the Hong Kong Gardens.  After exploring the gardens, stop into the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and grab tea and a light snack at the Lockcha Tea House.  

Hop into a taxi and head to Sheung Wan, Hong Kong's art district.  You'll find gorgeous ceramics, traditional art and antiques and contemporary galleries.  While you're in the neighborhood, step into the Man Mo Temple before grabbing a well-deserved dim sum lunch at Luk Yu Teahouse.  

After lunch, grab a cab over to Kowloon to check out the Nan Lian Garden and the Chi Lin Nunnery (about a three minute walk from one another).  Head back to the mainland and get a fancy dim sum dinner at Man Wah, a Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant and arguably Hong Kong's most beautiful dining space.  Grab cocktails after dinner at Lily & Bloom, and head out to the bars of Lan Kwai Fong (known as "LKF") for more revelry.  

Sunday

Get another early start today because you'll be visiting the Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha, otherwise known as the Big Buddha, on Lantau Island.  Take the MTR Tung Chung Station Exit B, then ride the Ngong Ping Cable Car over the hills for about a 25-minute ride, watching closely for an early glimpse of the Buddha.  After making your way through the cartoonish town (think: a Chinese Disneyland), ascend the stairs up to the Buddha.  Note: The Big Buddha is near the airport, so if you're taking off in the afternoon, you should bring your luggage with you in the morning, leave it in a locker in the airport, and then head to the Buddha by taxi.  

I didn't love the food offerings at the Monastery, and would suggest heading back to the mainland for lunch at the local favorite, Butao Ramen, followed by reflexology around the corner at Happy Foot.  Get sunset cocktails at the highest bar in the world, Ozone Bar, and then head to dinner at dinner at Lung King Heen, a three-Michelin-star Cantonese establishment in the Four Seasons Hotel.  If you are heading back to New York in the morning, head to Dusk Till Dawn and get a head start on kicking your jet lag by dancing all night to the live band.     

Victoria Peak ("The Peak")

View from The Peak

Ferry to Kowloon at night

Hong Kong

Hong Kong Garden

Luk Yu Teahouse

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Chi Lin Nunnery

Ngong Ping Cable Car

Ngong Ping Cable Car

Big Buddha

Big Buddha

Dim Sum at Lung King Heen

Lily & Bloom

Pololi

This is a delicious sashimi bar where you can get bowls of tuna with rice and other toppings on the go. 

Hong Kong

Night views

Stay: Peninsula; Landmark Mandarin Oriental; Mandarin Oriental; Four Seasons; Ritz Carlton. 

Eat: Butao Ramen; Hutong; Lung King Heen; Man Wah; Luk Yu Teahouse; Lockcha Tea House; Amber.

Do: Chi Lin Nunnery; Nan Lian Garden; Big Buddha; Reflexology (everywhere). 

Nightlife: CEO Noway; Dusk Till Dawn; Felix; Ozone Bar; Lily & Bloom; LKF district. 

When in Austin, Eat Breakfast Tacos

"There's no real Tex-Mex in New York," declared Cindi, the manager of Tamale House East, when she found out where I was from.  "They say they're Tex-Mex, but they don't have breakfast tacos on the menus!"  Austinites are proud of their cuisine, and rightly so, as the city puts out some of the best Tex-Mex and BBQ in the country.  

My recent weekend in Austin was spent consuming migas breakfast tacos, fried chicken, and heaps of smoked and sauced BBQ.  My stomach could barely keep up with all the deliciousness, and I frequently yearned for expedited digestion so I could get started on the next meal.  To get a sense of all that the Austin food scene has to offer, I'd recommend checking out casual diners for breakfast, food trucks for lunch, and nicer restaurants for dinner.  Here's where to eat at every meal and what to order: 

Breakfast:  

Traditional, home-cooked goodness:

Tamale House East: Mom's Migas with Cheese (a mouthwatering egg scramble with cheese and crispy tortilla strips), a tamale (any kind will do, this is the namesake after all), at least one breakfast taco (when in Austin...), and a Mexican iced coffee.

Lucy's Fried Chicken: Fried chicken and waffles with cinnamon-honey butter, bacon marmalade and maple syrup. 

If you're not a breakfast person...

Juice Austin: Try the Cha-Cha-Chai or one of this truck's signature smoothie bowls (a smoothie topped with granola and fresh fruit).  

Jo's Coffee: Right across the street from Juice Austin, they serve Stumptown coffee and a good assortment of breakfast tacos for your hungry friends.  

Lunch: 

Torchy's Tacos: My favorite taco is the Baja Shrimp, but you should also try the Trailer Park, the Fried Avocado, the Brushfire, the Mr. Orange and the Crossroads.  Basically, you'll probably need to come here a few times.  Note: The truck also has an excellent selection of breakfast tacos, including a migas taco, so this is also a good breakfast option, especially if you want something on-the-go.  

Franklin Barbecue: If you manage to brave the line and actually order from this Austin institution, it's all smokey deliciousness from there on out.   

Afternoon Snack:

Gourdough's: Fancy doughnuts.  'Nuff said.  

Dinner: 

La Condesa: Order the El Califa Taquito, with New York strip covered in crispy manchego cheese, cilantro and oak-grilled jalapeno-tomato salsa.

Lambert's: Fancy smoke-BBQ across the street from La Condesa.  Offers a variety of oak-smoked and oak-grilled options, and you should probably try one of each.  Start with the Spicy Deviled Eggs and the Deep Fried Boudin Fritters. 

Foreign and Domestic: One of the most talked-about restaurants on the "foodie" scene of Austin.  I went for "Fried Chicken Monday" and was in heaven. You'll get a basket of fried chicken, biscuits and honey and a bunch of mouth-watering sides including roasted tomatoes, brussels sprouts, potatoes, and a green salad.  For dessert, we had an ice cream sandwich made from peanut butter cookies and vanilla ice cream swirled with raspberry jam.  

Barley Swine: No ordering necessary - there's a tasting menu for $85/person and you'll try everything.  

Torchy's Tacos

Austin Juice Truck

Cupcake Truck

Feathers

An amazing vintage store in SoCo.

South Congress

Take Heart

Lady Bird

White Horse

Tamale House East

Capital Building

Gourdough's

Stay: JW Marriott; Four Seasons; Hotel Saint Cecilia. 

Eat: Tamale House East; Lucy's Fried Chicken; Torchy's Tacos; Franklin Barbecue; La Condesa; Foreign and Domestic; Barley Swine; Second Bar and Kitchen; Jo's Coffee; Juice Austin; Ironworks Barbecue; El Chilito; Uchi Sushi; Salty Sow; East Side King; Micklethwait. 

Shop: Take Heart; Feathers; Charm School Vintage. 

Music: The Continental Club; The White Horse; The Elephant Room. 

Fingerlakes Vineyard Hopping: The Secret's Out

Wine Enthusiast recently named the Finger Lakes region as one of the ten best wine travel destinations, and a "soon-to-be-revealed secret."  Now that the secret's out, I'll let you in on it.  I've been going wine-tasting at Keuka Lake for a decade now, and there is no better way to spend a summer or early fall weekend.  If you've been paying attention, you know that people have been talking about Finger Lakes wine for a few years now, and that it's been popping up on some of the hottest menus in the city (especially the whites and dry rieslings).  But wine-tasting in the Finger Lakes is such a special experience not just because of the quality of the wine, but because of the authentic beauty of the region and the unpretentiousness of the experience.   

Driving down the country roads between vineyards around Keuka Lake, you'll pass rustic red barns, impeccably maintained farms and adorable farm-stands selling flowers and vegetables.  The area is heavily dominated by Mennonites, who shun the use of electricity and take pride in keeping up their farms beautifully.  The result is that everything is Pinterest-worthy, but no one even knows what Pinterest is.  The cute little stand selling firewood in bundles is not on Instagram, and wasn't intended to look "country-chic"--it just is country chic and probably has been for decades.  

Because this region is still under the radar, it's about as unpretentious as you can get.  No reservations are necessary, everything is inexpensive (about $10 a tasting), and everywhere you go you'll be treated like a friend.  Stay at a BnB or rent a house on the lake, and drive from vineyard to vineyard, stopping at antique stores and barns along the way.  And you should probably go soon, since the secret's out and all.  

Keuka Lake Vineyards: Hunt Country Vineyards; Heron Hill Winery; Bully Hill Vineyards; Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars and Chateau Frank; Barrington Cellars; Chateau Renaissance Wine Cellars; Crooked Lake Winery. 

Antiquing: Over the Bridge Antiques; Wild Goose Chase Antiques; Crooked Lake Antiques.

Restaurants: The Waterfront; Lakeside Restaurant & Tavern; Esperanza Mansion; The Switzerland Inn. 

Stay: Steamboat Castle BnB; The Willows; Tudor Hall BnB. 

Amanda's Anguilla: Insider Tips for an Iconic Island Weekend

Fifty-one years ago, my family made the West Indies their home. My grandparents moved there from New York for an entrepreneurial life in the Caribbean and never looked back. Le sigh.

The West Indies have always been where I feel the most at home - the sun shines brightly, the salty wind licks against your skin, and the fruit is tangy and sweet.

When my husband and I began the terrifying journey to decide where to get married, Anguilla was our obvious choice. The food is exceptional, with plenty of island access to European wines and cheeses, the weather is gorgeous for most of the year with very little rainfall, and most importantly, getting to Anguilla is convenient and cost-effective to travel to, considering how remote it feels.

The only thing better than a Caribbean horseback ride on the beach is one in the water.

The view from Cap Juluca's oceanfront rooms.

Grab a lunch laden with fresh catch on Sandy Island - a small strip of sand in the middle of the ocean with an incredible BBQ shack, tunes and fine wines.

The view from the tip of Sandy Island.

The full spread for lunch at Sandy Island - don't forget to order the sticky ribs with your Crustaceans!

Our wedding dinner on the beach by Cap Juluca on a full moon. Photo by Jen Huang Photography.

Walking with your toes in the sand at Cap Juluca Resort's Maundays Bay is a must for all visitors to Anguilla. Photo by Jen Huang Photography.

The pool at the Viceroy Anguilla. Photo by Jen Huang Photography.

A rainbow with St. Martin in the distance taken at the Villas at CuisinArt with the men returning from an afternoon swim.

Namesake flowers in bloom at the Frangipani Hotel.

Every room at Cap Juluca is oceanfront with the waves lulling you to sleep at night and welcoming you to a new beach day in the morning.

The tanning accommodations at Cap Juluca with full butler service and exceptional piña coladas will make you want to stay well past sunset.

DAYTIME

1. The Beach at Cap Juluca Hotel in Maundays Bay

2.  A Boat Charter to Sandy Island for Lunch and Rosé (or Rum Punch)

3. A Catamaran Sail to Prickly Pear Island with Bluebeard Charters

4. Jumping off the rocks at Little Bay (short travel by boat)

5. Golfing at CuisinArt

NIGHTTIME

Sunset at the Viceroy Hotel’s aptly named Sunset Lounge

Live Music at Bankie Banx Dune Preserve  (Bankie Banx is the “Caribbean Bob Dylan”)

For more of a local night spot, try The Pump House or Elvis Beach Bar in Sandy Ground

Drinks at Spice Bar overlooking the beach at Cap Juluca

WHERE TO STAY

Cap Juluca – the best beach, white glove butler service, exceptional food and new renovations. A romantic and family friendly location

Viceroy Anguilla – the best place to watch the sun set, perfect for the traveler who likes the modern Euro party vibe. Best for a new romance getaway or fun friends trip.

Malliouhana – Newly re-opened, this was once the top destination for celebrities visiting Anguilla. Great food from a Michelin-star chef, Elle Décor-style furnishings and the best pool on the island.

Anacaona Boutique Hotel – the best deal ($170/night April to mid-December) in the heart of West End’s fantastic restaurants and swanky hotels. 

RESTAURANTS

1. Veya (Sandy Ground - Island Fusion - Fine Dining, Dinner): Known by many as the "Treehouse" restaurant for it's set up, this is everyone's island favorite - which is saying a lot, considering the cuisine available. Try the Morrocan-Spiced Shrimp "Cigars" or consider the tasting menu!

2. Picante (West End Village - Caribbean Taqueria – Casual, Dinner ): Fantastic Mexican with a Caribbean twist aka fresh seafare! The vibe of this place is wonderful and the food matches, making it one of the top go-tos for any hungry bellies.

3. Jacala (Meads Bay - French Caribbean – Fine Dining, Lunch, Dinner): A delicious French restaurant right on the water with a gorgeous beach and your not-so-typical large lounge bean bag to soak in the sun after enjoying your rosé. Great for lunch!

4. Blanchards (Meads Bay – Fusion – Fine Dining, Dinner, Casual, Lunch): We haven't met a person who went to Anguilla and didn't love Blanchards Beach Shack! It has a wild hodgepodge of casual cuisine, from Greek to Mexican to Hot Dogs to straight American BBQ. All very delicious and with prices like, "$8.91," you will be chuckling to yourself while digging your toes into the sand.  The restaurant, which is separate, has a deliciously fresh menu for a more romantic evening.

5. Mangos (West End Village – Seafood – Fine Dining, Dinner): A stunning beachside restaurant with candlelight and fine dining linens. Expect to watch the sunset from Adirondack chairs on the beach and taking your time to delight in your meal!

6. Dolce Vita (Sandy Ground - Italian, Fine Dining, Dinner): It's safe to say this is the best view of the yachts that come to moor off Anguilla's coast. The setting and clientele for such a sight is a perfect match, in a Caribbean way. For phenomenal saucier work, spiny lobster, and an airy gnocchi to pair with your Nero D'Avola, this is your Friday night.

7. Sun Shine Shack (Rendezvous Bay, - BBQ - Casual, Authentic, Lunch): If you are looking for some authentic, Caribbean-style grilling, get thee to the Shack! It's a brightly painted wooden hut on the beach, where all of your hunger will be satiated with a plate of chicken with rice & beans or a sunny cocktail, whichever your preference. All served up with big Anguillan smiles.

8. B & D BBQ (Long Bay Village – BBQ – Authentic, Casual, Lunch, Dinner): A true local experience where you eat on plastic tables under a makeshift tent. Do yourself a favor and grab some johnny cakes, the ribs, and a Carib beer or Ting soda. If you don’t mind bones, treat yourself to the whole fish feast and don’t forget the rice and beans!

9. Falcon Nest (Island Harbour – Caribbean – Authentic, Casual, Lunch, Dinner): All I can say is wow. The rice and peas, the potfish straight from the wharf, the french fries. This place is a local favorite and it’s easy to see why once your plate arrives.

10. Trattoria Tramonto (West End Village – Italian – Casual, Lunch, Dinner): Italian food with a surprisingly authentic gravy (red sauce) and a wide range of comfort food such as calamari.  Sit back and enjoy the gorgeous view of the sunset with a great glass of wine.

WHEN TO GO

Anguilla is a Fall, Winter or Spring destination, but an insider tip is that in mid-April to late May, the weather is still gorgeous, but considered, "Off Season," so large discounts apply to most accommodations. It also never hurts to sunbathe without many passersby and walk directly to your table at the best restaurants!

MAP OF SOME HIGHLIGHTS

An Insider's Guide to Bali

After booking a much-anticipated vacation to Bali for this August, my first call was to my college friend Sahiba.  Aside from being generally awesome and the sweetest person ever, Sahiba just so happens to own and manage an award-winning hotel in Ubud, Bali..all from the comfort of her home in LA.  We spoke about how she came to own a hotel in Bali, what it's like running a hotel from across the world, and her tips for a fabulous vacation in Bali.  

Sahiba, at the Viceroy, Ubud

How did you come to run a hotel in Bali?  My father was born in Indonesia, and my grandfather in the 1950's was the first exporter of Indonesian handicrafts. They eventually moved to the United States many years later, and in early 2008, my father decided to purchase a vacation home in his old home of Bali. After leaving the investment banking world in September 2008, I convinced my father to convert the vacation home into a 7-villa hotel.  After a series of renovations, Villa Sarna was officially in business by mid-1009. The property is set about 15 minutes from the center of Ubud, among lush greenery and rice paddies. It is truly one of the most peaceful places in the world. 

 What was it like getting the hotel started?  Getting the hotel off the ground took a lot of patience and virtual meetings and contracts with the online booking agents such as Expedia, Orbitz, Agoda, and Wotif.  In the beginning, I would have to work at all hours of the night to ensure there would be no over-bookings, but a few years later, I was able to automate the system across all outlets using a channel manager.  In 2011 and 2013, Expedia honored  Villa Sarna with the Insiders' Select Award, which means their users considered us one of the top 650 hotels in the world.

Is it difficult to run a hotel in Bali from LA?  The internet makes handling the customer service, accounting, and marketing very seamless from Los Angeles (or anywhere), although I do wish I could make it to Bali more often.

What do you do when not running a hotel on the other side of the world?  The hotel's existence inspired my family to start an eco-friendly candle company called Volcanica Candles in Ubud in 2010, specializing in unique hand-crafted candles.  We now employ over 200 Balinese craftspeople - many of whom have family members who are employed at the hotel as well. The people of Bali are among the warmest in the world, and I'm lucky to be immersed in such a wonderful culture.

Sahiba's Recommendations

Ubud

About:  Ubud is the cultural hub of Bali.   I would plan to stay 2-3 days here.

What to do:  I recommend hiking Mt. Batur Volcano at sunrise, cycling along the rice paddies, white water rafting, and taking a yoga class at Yoga Barn.  There are really nice temples here and the biggest attraction is the Monkey Forest in the center of Ubud (just beware of feisty monkeys).  Another popular attraction is the cultural Bali Kecak Fire Dance.  You can ride an elephant in Ubud at the Elephant Safari Park.  My favorite thing to do would be to take a cooking class.  They take you on a tour of the local market before teaching you how to prepare a full Indonesian meal.  After the class, you enjoy lunch or dinner with other vacationers from all over the world. I took a class at Casa Luna, but Paon Bali also has great reviews.

Hotels: Viceroy Bali, Four Seasons at Sayan, and Ubud Hanging Gardens.  Ubud Hanging Gardens has one of the most stunning pools in the world.  You are taken through the hotel in a cable car.  

Restaurants:   Bridges (request to sit near the waterfall for dinner); Melting Wok (very casual, great food for lunch); Ibu Rai (also casual); Kafe (for lunch, juices); Pica South American Kitchen (for dinner - amazing food);  Locavore (for dinner.. make sure you book well in advance.. a fancier meal - rated #1 on TripAdvisor); Dirty Duck Cafe (you sit among the rice paddies (known for their crispy duck); Ibu Oka was made famous by Anthony Bourdain for its roasted pig;  Cascades at the Viceroy (or you can just go for a drink before sunset at the bar...stunning rice paddies).  You will read about Mozaic, but it is absurdly expensive/not worth it. 

Nusa Dua

This separated beach area of Bali is very quiet.  The hotel resorts are very large and lavish.  It is a bit quiet for my taste, but people like it.  I've stayed at the Ayodya, but you really can't go wrong with any of the big hotels.  I only ate at the hotel...things are very far apart. 

Seminyak

This is the hip area of Bali in the south.  I would spend about 3-4 days in Seminyak.  It is beachfront and only about 20 minutes from the airport, which makes it the most popular area in Bali to stay in.  The stores, restaurants, night life, and spas are all excellent.  Up-and-coming Indonesian and Australian designers have their boutiques here.   The best place to see the sunset is at Ku De Ta.  Potato Head has a very relaxed atmosphere as well.   Both Ku De Ta and Potato Head are essentially outdoor lounges. 

Hotels: The W Seminyak, The Legian, or the Oberoi. 

Restaurants: Mamasan, Chandi, Sarong, Sisterfields (for a healthy lunch), Naughty Nuri's (for ribs). 

Jimbaran Bay

About:  This is a very nice area of Bali, near Seminyak and Nusa Dua.  One of the coolest parts is that you can pick out your seafood from stands lined up on the beach.  They will cook it for you and you dine just steps from the ocean.

Hotels:  The Rock Bar at the Ayana Resort is stunning. You take an elevator down the cliff and the bar is at the edge of the cliff looking into the ocean.  Fun fact: Julia Roberts stayed at the Four Seasons Jimbaran while filming Eat Pray Love...you can't go wrong with either hotel.  If you really want to splurge, the Bvlgari in Uluwatu is incredible.  The rooms are individual villas and you are shuttled around the resort by a private golf cart.  Monkeys camp out on your terrace.  Even if you don't stay there, I would go there for a drink. Uluwatu is a place known for big wave surfing and beautiful cliff views.  

Gili Islands

A lot of travelers have recently been going to the Gili Islands as well for snorkeling and diving.  It is about a 2-hour ferry ride from Bali.  I've heard it's really peaceful (no cars), but it is a bit of a trek. 

Notes 

Hiring a private driver is essential to truly explore Bali.  All of the hotels arrange them and most are about $50-$100 per day.  As of early June, Americans are no longer required to purchase a Visa on Arrival. The maximum length of time you can stay in Indonesia is 30 days.