Ubud: Land of the Gods (and art, yoga, and massages)
Are you a wellness-addict who goes to Art Basel? If so, then Ubud might just be your dream destination. This is a place for the yogis, the juicers and the spa-obsessed. But with a thriving art scene, Ubud also attracts serious collectors and culture-fiends. No matter who you are, though, you'll likely find something magical about Ubud. From the striking beauty of the rice fields, to the ornate temples on nearly every corner, it's no wonder they call Ubud "The Land of the Gods."
Here is my Ubud weekend itinerary, with your home base as the Uma, by COMO. There is no shortage of incredible hotels in Ubud, but having spent three days at Uma, I can vouch for its service, food and aesthetic. Many of the rooms come with private pools, and ours had one that that looked out into the rainforest. The Neka Art Museum is literally next door, Putri Bali Spa across the street, and Mozaic restaurant a few minutes down the road. While the "main" Ubud town is about a five-minute drive south (and about a 20 minute walk) I preferred the more relaxed, low-key vibe of northern Ubud.
Saturday
Morning: Get an early start with an 8am stroll through the rice paddies surrounding the hotel (led by an Uma guide each morning) and take endless photos of the neon green grass, set against a backdrop of rainforest. (Side note: rice paddies do very well on Instagram). Once you've worked up an appetite, grab breakfast at the hotel's health-conscious restaurant, with offerings including: "black rice pudding with mango, banana and young coconut" and "sweet corn cakes with smoked salmon, avocado and lemon scented cottage cheese with rocket".
After breakfast, rent a bike from Uma and explore the colorful villages. With all of the temples, exotic flora, and rice paddies, it's hard to put your phone down long enough to actually get anywhere. My favorite moment of this ride, though, was when two schoolboys around eight-years-old rode up next to me and with sly smiles began yelling "F*** you" to me. It brought them endless joy to utter this phrase, and I found myself returning the compliment. And so it happened that these Balinese children and I rode together for about 15 minutes, yelling "F*** you" to each other as we flew through the paddies. Memories.
Afternoon: After you've freshened up, head out from the hotel on foot and grab a BBQ lunch across the street at Naughty Nuri's, known for their ribs and (strong) martinis. Stroll through the town surrounding the hotel and pop into the art galleries dotting the main street. The Neka Art Museum has an impressive collection of Balinese art and is set in a peaceful garden. Relax afterwards with reflexology or a massage at Putri Bali Spa.
Evening: Head out for dinner at Mozaic, a romantic restaurant just a few minutes walk from your hotel. Mozaic is on the pricey side, but it's a staple of Ubud dining for a reason. After dinner, stop by the aptly named Room 4 Dessert, brainchild of Will Goldfarb (behind the restaurant at Ku de Ta).
Sunday
Morning: Start off your day with yoga at the hotel, followed by breakfast at Uma. Hire a hotel guide for the morning and check out some of the incredible temples surrounding Bali, perhaps even participating in a purification ritual at the Terta Empul Temple. Then head to Bali Pulina where you will sample various Balinese coffees above the most famous rice paddy in Ubud. They are known for their Kopi Luwak, a coffee brewed from beans that have been eaten and excreted from a ferret-like animal known as the Asian Palm Civet. For extra points, feed the animals coffee beans by hand before heading to the terrace to drink the coffee they just pooped.
Afternoon: Have your guide drop you off for lunch at Sari Organik, a healthy restaurant smack in the middle of the rice paddies (Note: your driver will drop you off at the edge of the rice paddy, and you'll need to take a small pathway about ten minutes through the rice paddy to get to the restaurant, which is an experience in itself). After lunch, explore the surrounding town, stopping in the shops and checking out some more galleries. If you're feeling adventurous, stop into the Ubud Monkey Forest, but beware, the monkeys here are notoriously aggressive! (I skipped this activity because I happen to be terrified of monkeys). If you missed yoga this morning, an alternative afternoon plan is to take a yoga class at Yoga Barn and eat lunch there after.
Evening: Have a hotel car drive you ten minutes south for dinner at the place everyone's talking about: Locavore. Make sure to reserve a table in advance...and to save room, as this is a seven course experience. After dinner, head back to your room and sip wine by candlelight, listening to the noises of the jungle while you contemplate arranging a life for yourself in Ubud. For now, take solace in the fact that you are leaving feeling invigorated, healthy, and likely with an amazing new piece of art.
Stay: Uma, by COMO; The Viceroy; Ubud Hanging Gardens; The Chedi Club.
Eat: Sari Organik; Room 4 Dessert; Mozaic; Bridges; Naughty Nuri's; Yoga Barn; Locavore.
Art: Neka Art Museum; Komaneka Gallery; Arma; Sika Gallery; Bamboo Gallery; Museum Puri Lakisan; Antonio Blanco Museum; Museum Rudana.
Spas: Putri Bali Spa; Ubud Traditional Spa.
Activities: Ubud Monkey Forest; Bali Pulina; Terta Empul Temple; Ubud Palace; Ubud Market; Yoga Barn.
