An Insider's Guide to Bali

After booking a much-anticipated vacation to Bali for this August, my first call was to my college friend Sahiba.  Aside from being generally awesome and the sweetest person ever, Sahiba just so happens to own and manage an award-winning hotel in Ubud, Bali..all from the comfort of her home in LA.  We spoke about how she came to own a hotel in Bali, what it's like running a hotel from across the world, and her tips for a fabulous vacation in Bali.  

Sahiba, at the Viceroy, Ubud

How did you come to run a hotel in Bali?  My father was born in Indonesia, and my grandfather in the 1950's was the first exporter of Indonesian handicrafts. They eventually moved to the United States many years later, and in early 2008, my father decided to purchase a vacation home in his old home of Bali. After leaving the investment banking world in September 2008, I convinced my father to convert the vacation home into a 7-villa hotel.  After a series of renovations, Villa Sarna was officially in business by mid-1009. The property is set about 15 minutes from the center of Ubud, among lush greenery and rice paddies. It is truly one of the most peaceful places in the world. 

 What was it like getting the hotel started?  Getting the hotel off the ground took a lot of patience and virtual meetings and contracts with the online booking agents such as Expedia, Orbitz, Agoda, and Wotif.  In the beginning, I would have to work at all hours of the night to ensure there would be no over-bookings, but a few years later, I was able to automate the system across all outlets using a channel manager.  In 2011 and 2013, Expedia honored  Villa Sarna with the Insiders' Select Award, which means their users considered us one of the top 650 hotels in the world.

Is it difficult to run a hotel in Bali from LA?  The internet makes handling the customer service, accounting, and marketing very seamless from Los Angeles (or anywhere), although I do wish I could make it to Bali more often.

What do you do when not running a hotel on the other side of the world?  The hotel's existence inspired my family to start an eco-friendly candle company called Volcanica Candles in Ubud in 2010, specializing in unique hand-crafted candles.  We now employ over 200 Balinese craftspeople - many of whom have family members who are employed at the hotel as well. The people of Bali are among the warmest in the world, and I'm lucky to be immersed in such a wonderful culture.

Sahiba's Recommendations

Ubud

About:  Ubud is the cultural hub of Bali.   I would plan to stay 2-3 days here.

What to do:  I recommend hiking Mt. Batur Volcano at sunrise, cycling along the rice paddies, white water rafting, and taking a yoga class at Yoga Barn.  There are really nice temples here and the biggest attraction is the Monkey Forest in the center of Ubud (just beware of feisty monkeys).  Another popular attraction is the cultural Bali Kecak Fire Dance.  You can ride an elephant in Ubud at the Elephant Safari Park.  My favorite thing to do would be to take a cooking class.  They take you on a tour of the local market before teaching you how to prepare a full Indonesian meal.  After the class, you enjoy lunch or dinner with other vacationers from all over the world. I took a class at Casa Luna, but Paon Bali also has great reviews.

Hotels: Viceroy Bali, Four Seasons at Sayan, and Ubud Hanging Gardens.  Ubud Hanging Gardens has one of the most stunning pools in the world.  You are taken through the hotel in a cable car.  

Restaurants:   Bridges (request to sit near the waterfall for dinner); Melting Wok (very casual, great food for lunch); Ibu Rai (also casual); Kafe (for lunch, juices); Pica South American Kitchen (for dinner - amazing food);  Locavore (for dinner.. make sure you book well in advance.. a fancier meal - rated #1 on TripAdvisor); Dirty Duck Cafe (you sit among the rice paddies (known for their crispy duck); Ibu Oka was made famous by Anthony Bourdain for its roasted pig;  Cascades at the Viceroy (or you can just go for a drink before sunset at the bar...stunning rice paddies).  You will read about Mozaic, but it is absurdly expensive/not worth it. 

Nusa Dua

This separated beach area of Bali is very quiet.  The hotel resorts are very large and lavish.  It is a bit quiet for my taste, but people like it.  I've stayed at the Ayodya, but you really can't go wrong with any of the big hotels.  I only ate at the hotel...things are very far apart. 

Seminyak

This is the hip area of Bali in the south.  I would spend about 3-4 days in Seminyak.  It is beachfront and only about 20 minutes from the airport, which makes it the most popular area in Bali to stay in.  The stores, restaurants, night life, and spas are all excellent.  Up-and-coming Indonesian and Australian designers have their boutiques here.   The best place to see the sunset is at Ku De Ta.  Potato Head has a very relaxed atmosphere as well.   Both Ku De Ta and Potato Head are essentially outdoor lounges. 

Hotels: The W Seminyak, The Legian, or the Oberoi. 

Restaurants: Mamasan, Chandi, Sarong, Sisterfields (for a healthy lunch), Naughty Nuri's (for ribs). 

Jimbaran Bay

About:  This is a very nice area of Bali, near Seminyak and Nusa Dua.  One of the coolest parts is that you can pick out your seafood from stands lined up on the beach.  They will cook it for you and you dine just steps from the ocean.

Hotels:  The Rock Bar at the Ayana Resort is stunning. You take an elevator down the cliff and the bar is at the edge of the cliff looking into the ocean.  Fun fact: Julia Roberts stayed at the Four Seasons Jimbaran while filming Eat Pray Love...you can't go wrong with either hotel.  If you really want to splurge, the Bvlgari in Uluwatu is incredible.  The rooms are individual villas and you are shuttled around the resort by a private golf cart.  Monkeys camp out on your terrace.  Even if you don't stay there, I would go there for a drink. Uluwatu is a place known for big wave surfing and beautiful cliff views.  

Gili Islands

A lot of travelers have recently been going to the Gili Islands as well for snorkeling and diving.  It is about a 2-hour ferry ride from Bali.  I've heard it's really peaceful (no cars), but it is a bit of a trek. 

Notes 

Hiring a private driver is essential to truly explore Bali.  All of the hotels arrange them and most are about $50-$100 per day.  As of early June, Americans are no longer required to purchase a Visa on Arrival. The maximum length of time you can stay in Indonesia is 30 days.  

Is London the new New York?

For those New Yorkers who have ever had the dreadful thought - "what if I ever get sick of the city?" - the knowledge that London exists should be more than adequate consolation.  London is basically an older, more refined New York.  You'll get all the hustle and bustle of New York, except that the buildings are more beautiful and the people speak in fancy accents.  

Just like New York, London can be broken down into neighborhoods with varying degrees of hipness, two of which are reassuringly named Soho and Chelsea.  You'll need reservations at the best restaurants, you'll wait an hour to eat brunch on Saturday morning, and you'll need to weasel your way into Chiltern Firehouse (an Andre Balazs property) just like you would at Acme.  

Truth be told, spending a weekend in London is a lot like spending a weekend in Manhattan, except everything is new since you're a tourist.  Summer is a great time to visit because the weather is nice and the city is not very crowded, since everyone is away playing croquet at large, tangentially royal estates.  If you should be invited out to the countryside, then you should stop reading here because you're obviously going to do that.  If you'll be spending the weekend in the city amidst the British summer interns, then please consult my list below of city highlights.  (Note: In London, neighborhoods are more spread out and cabs are quite expensive, so you'll want to minimize jumping around.  I'm providing itineraries for what I consider to be the three best neighborhoods: Notting Hill, Chelsea and Mayfair).

Notting Hill: Have brunch at Granger & Co or 202 before an afternoon of shopping on Portobello Road Market.  Relax afterwards with a pint at Mall Tavern, and for dinner try The Shed or current hot spot West Thirty Six.  Afterwards, get drinks at Rum Kitchen.  

Chelsea: Eat brunch or lunch at Bluebird (a neighborhood institution) or the Chelsea Farmer's Market, before shopping along Kings Road. Grab fish and chips at gastropub Admiral Codington and al fresco drinks at the Phene.  Head to Jak's on Walton Street for dinner, and Raffles for nightlife. 

Mayfair: Have lunch at Cecconi's and afternoon champagne tea at the iconic Wolseley.  For dinner, go to Berner's Tavern (inside the Edition Hotel) or Pachamama.  Go out to Chiltern Firehouse or, if you can find a member to take you, the Arts Club or Lulu's.

Other main attractions: Shopping at Harrods, V&A Museum, British Museum, Tate Modern, Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral, the National Gallery, Kensington Gardens & Hyde Park, Holland Park, Regent's Park.  

Hyde Park

Portobello Road Markets

Portobello Road Markets

Chiltern Firehouse

Knightsbridge

Knightsbridge

Bluebird

Chelsea

South Kensington

V&A Museum

V&A Museum

South Kensington

South Kensington

South Kensington

Admiral Codington

Fish and Chips at Admiral Codington

The Berkley Hotel

Holland Park

Holland Park

Holland Park

The peacocks of Holland Park are protected by the Queen. 

Holland Park

Holland Park

The peacocks of Holland Park are protected by the Queen. 

Gerner's Tavern

At the Edition Hotel. 

Gerner's Tavern

At the Edition Hotel. 

Gerner's Tavern

At the Edition Hotel. 

Gerner's Tavern

At the Edition Hotel. 

Gerner's Tavern

At the Edition Hotel. 

Edition Hotel

The Berkley

A special thanks to Kat Kaplan for her tips and suggestions, which were instrumental to my weekend in London and this article.  

Spring in Bloom at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden

The Brooklyn Botanic Garden may just be the perfect place to spend a spring day.

Hours: Tuesday - Friday, 8am - 6pm; Saturday - Sunday, 10am - 6pm; closed Monday, but open Memorial day, 10am - 6pm. 

Admission: Adults: $12; Students & Seniors: $6

Getting there: By subway, take the 2,3,B,Q,4,5, or S train.  

Tulum: Trendy But I'm Okay With That

Recently mocked in NY Mag for being the "Williamsburg of Mexico," there's no denying that Tulum feels a bit more Montauk than Mexico.  Shortly after arriving, we met a group of aggressively on-trend women in jumpsuits and gladiator sandals (subsequently referred to as the "WeHo girls") who were desperate to know what was "going on" that night.  Obviously, Hartwood was going on for dinner, and we ran into them later as we were leaving the restaurant.  At Hartwood, we learned from our modelesque Spanish waiter (spending the summer in Tulum before moving to London to study) that "everyone" would be at a full moon party later that night at Papaya Playa Project.  He heard there was a pre-party at Pablo Escobar's house too, but that the people renting the house this week were a bit douchy.  A few hours later, we paid $25 cover to get into the full moon party, where we ran into the waiter from Hartwood along with a bunch of people our age from LA and New York.

Sceney-ness aside, it's clear why Tulum has become a favorite destination of so many cosmopolitan travelers.   Along with sunny skies and gorgeous beaches, Tulum boasts mouthwatering food, trendy hotels and bars, and enough yoga studios and spas to keep the juice cleansers satisfied.  What's more, there are a ton of fascinating cultural and adventure activities to try (think: Mayan ruins and underground caves and pools).  Perhaps at the expense of "authenticity," Tulum truly has it all.  

Our itinerary was as follows: 

Thursday : We checked into Maya Tulum and walked five minutes down the street to grab fish tacos at Mateo's.  The rumors are true: these are the best fish tacos you will ever eat.  We spent the afternoon shopping on the main street before dinner at Casa Jaguar.  Around 11pm, the lights go down, the music goes up, the rich smell of incense surrounds you, and the dance party begins.  

Friday: We woke up to the sound of the waves and took a 9am yoga class at Maya Tulum.  After breakfast at Maya Tulum, we spent the afternoon riding bikes up the main street of Tulum to the Biosphere and then to the beach at El Zebra.  With comfy beach beds, killer empanadas and plenty of Mezcal, this is the perfect place to spend an afternoon at the beach.  Dinner that night was at the jungle-sexy bar/restaurant Gitano, which was named one of the top bars to see before you die.  

Saturday:  We spent the morning exploring the ancient Mayan ruins of Coba on bike.  At the top of the main ruin, we took exhaustive photographs of ourselves in various poses against the jungle backdrop before heading to cool off at the nearby underground freshwater pools (known as cenotes).   Afterwards, we hit the beach at Ziggy's beach club for cocktails, guac, and a swim.  That night was the aforementioned dinner at Hartwood and dance party at Papaya Playa Project.  

Sunday:  We woke up to the sound of the waves again, but this time it was bittersweet, because we knew it was the final day of our trip.  I had a massage at 9am, which was much needed after all of the previous day's activities.  After a final breakfast together, we headed off in a private shuttle to the airport, stopping on the way to purchase one last fruit smoothie for the road. 

Ziggy's Beach Club

We came here in the afternoon for lunch and cocktails on the beach. 

Ziggy's Beach Club

Ziggy's Beach Club

Ziggy's Beach Club

Ziggy's Beach Club

Renting a bike is a must!

Town of Tulum

Mateo's, where I had the best fish taco of my life

Mateo's

Epic fish tacos at Mateo's

Street art

Maya Tulum

Maya Tulum

Mosquito netting keeps out the bugs and lets you fall asleep to the sound of the waves

Maya Tulum

Reserve a beach front cabana, and you'll be steps away from the beach

Maya Tulum

Maya Tulum

Coba: Mayan Ruins

At first I was terrified, but looking back, I'm glad I climbed to the top.  

Bikes for rent at Coba

Maya Tulum

Maya Tulum

Maya Tulum

View from the restaurant

Biking through Tulum

Stay: Ahau Tulum; Coqui Coqui; Maya Tulum; Papaya Playa Project; Ana y Jose

Eat: Hartwood; Gitano; Casa Jaguar; Mateos; Casa Banana; El Tabano; El Camello

Do: Bike along the main strip of Tulum, stopping in shops along the way; explore the ancient Mayan ruins of Coba by bicycle; swim in the cenotes; chill on the beach at El Zebra or Ziggy's Beach Club.  

Classic Cars and Cigars: A Weekend in Cuba

New Jersey native Clayton Orrigo has made a name for himself as one of New York City's most formidable forces in luxury residential real estate.  We couldn't help but notice his gorgeous Instagram photos from a recent weekend in Cuba, and were lucky enough to catch up with him about his enviable trip to one of our Top 5 Emerging Hot Spots for Spring, 2015.   

What inspired the trip to Cuba?

It was my close friend's 30th birthday and he planned the trip for a group of eight of us.  We all wanted to check out Cuba before everything starts changing given the upcoming political changes with the U.S.

How did you get there?

Legally.  That’s the first thing to note!  We used a tour group to set it up and then we flew to Miami, spent a night at Soho Beach House, and flew to Cuba the next day. 

How did you get your visa?

The Cuba Exchange Program from Cuba Educational Travel. 

What's the best thing you packed?

Cash, because credit cards don’t work there. 

What were the best tips you got before you left?

To be prepared for the hot weather and to make sure your hotel has internet, since only a few do.  We stayed at Hotel Sevilla, which had wifi. 

What was the best meal you had there?

On our last night, we went to Dona Eutimia, which made Newsweek Magazine’s top 100 restaurants in the world in 2012.  They are known for their "ropa vieja," an amazing pork dish.  There is very little red meat in Cuba because it’s too expensive to get.  Even chicken needs to be imported from Canada.  So pork is their primary meat source.  Since almost everything is run by the government, you're best off making reservations at private restaurants which are effectively in people’s homes, usually offering a more upscale dining experience.

Favorite thing you did:

I visited a gallery of Hector Frank, a famous Cuban artist.  The gallery is in his private home, and we had a chance to meet his entire family as well as purchase a number of his pieces from his most recent collection.  He’s an up-and-coming artist starting to pick up a lot of steam in the U.S.   

Tell me about your best day there.

 One day we met a group of Croatians and got a chance to spend time with them as they were also exploring Old Havana.  We walked around and ate in bars where Hemingway used to hang out, which is big deal there (he is a huge figure in their culture and his books are being sold everywhere on the streets) and then we all went out partying that evening.  We bounced around to a couple fun clubs, including the "Art Factory" which is essentially a gigantic warehouse that is part club / part gallery.  We all ended up back at our hotel swimming under the stars until 6am.

What's one place you didn't get to visit but wanted to? 

Varadero Beach.  We ended changing a lot on our itinerary to focus on less "touristy" pursuits and more a natural exploration of the city. We wanted to find the Nolita of Cuba, not Broadway and it's tourist traps. We had our guide point us in the right direction and we roamed around for hours stopping in random bars, and street markets.

What was the most interesting thing you learned?

Brain surgeons make $30 per month. The healthcare system and the educational system is actually quite strong, but as the government pays for everything, wages are extremely low. The government provides food and shelter subsidies in addition, but some of the smartest people in the country make a fraction of our minimum wage employees in the U.S.

What did you bring back?

Everyone wanted rum and cigars and we were able to bring a limited amount back of each.  I also brought back a humidor.

What’s the #1 tip you'd give a friend who wanted to go?  

Get a tour guide and a car.  We had a driver the whole time and that was instrumental to us getting around.  Since there's no internet or Googlemaps, it's very challenging to get around.  Also, ditch the aforementioned Sprinter van for some amazing classic car taxis. We occasionally had our driver follow us as we drove around in classic American 1958 convertibles in all sorts of Crayola colors.  

Would you go back?

Yes.  What is so interesting about Cuba is that it’s only 90 miles off of Miami, but has a very Parisian, European feel to it.  The city is architecturally stunning, so for those based in Florida, they can have a completely new experience only 30 minutes away. 

Sunset at Hotel Sevilla

Taxi stand

Renting a classic car is a must!

View of Havana

Rolling Cuban cigars

Taxi Driver

"Her husband renovates classic cars.  Cuba is known for its classic cars, but renovating them is difficult because Cuba does not have access to many of necessary parts.  Renovators often have to make the parts by scratch, so in many ways, these people are artists." - Clayton   

Sunset over Havana

Stay: Hotel Sevilla;  Hotel Nacional.

Do: Stroll through the Old City, visiting Plaza Vieja, Plaza de San Francisco, Plaza de la Catedral, and Plaza de Armas; visit the Rum Museum; take a day trip to Vinales Valley; hike the tobacco fields; visit the arts and crafts market in Old Havana; take a group picture at La Plaza de Revolucion.

Eat: Hotel Nacional; Dona Eutimia; El Cocinero.